Friday, December 21, 2007

Christmas, Religion, Europe, etc.

Mary and Joseph at a living nativity, complete with camels, 3 kings, angels. The wise men were really decked out with great costumes and one even spoke Chinese.
A neighbor's house transformed into living advent calendar. In some neighborhoods, houses adopt a date, welcoming the public to come in for mulled wine and cookies.
Migros' coupon advent calendar, which features different markdowns for each day in December.
Both a response to and expression of modernity, I think America saved - albeit transformed - religion by privatizing it; Europe baptized the State, and Christianity whithered away. However, elaborate religious rituals live on like cultural ghosts who arrive on schedule; reminiscent of what you're likely to see in mainline churches back home. In Switzerland, there is no separation between church and state, but the former has been folded into the latter. After Christmas break, Michael will have school vacation days for the Ascension and Pentecost.

There is a lingua franca of religious tradition practiced in public and second-nature to most - sort of like ethnic identity in the US (Jews with Hanukkah, East Asians with New Years) - these forms have been grandfathered in, but cut no substantive ice any longer. It is like a piece of furniture that occupied a prominent place in a former dwelling, but loses its function after the move. It becomes entirely aesthetic. The sentiment can be conjured, should you come across it, but you don't have a real place for it anymore.

Religion in this sense is more custom than belief. Thus, like in Japan, everyone when asked would say, "I have no religion," which strikes Americans as odd when observing all the hundreds of annual festival rituals, incense offering, shrine tokens, etc. Lots of highly intricate, aesthetically fine-tuned forms, basically.

Because religion as belief is strong in America, a pluralistic solution tries to appease all competing parties, allowing no observance of any one religious form in public; far from no religion, there's an excess of numbers and kind. But in Europe, since religion is largely a non-issue, the customs are both harmless and ubiquitous.

BUT, if belief is dead, religion as ethnic identity becomes potent, because there's no way to regulate it. It's entirely irrational, untethered to larger, human organization or a political framework, and becomes an identity issue.

Roche de Naye

Roche de Naye is the 6700 ft peak above Montreux, which you can get to by a cogwheel train that goes up up up; where there is snow and St Nicholas. For our North Pole-esque experience, we had a clear day and could see down to the lake, as well as into France and Italy. You really could fall to your peril, since there is no fencing on the other side of where we took this picture.
There was suspense built-in, as you got off the train, then walked through a dark tunnel decorated with blue fairy lights and garland - at the other end was a tremendous view and the man in red. Santas have recently hit shopping malls and some Swiss even decorate their houses with lights. Each year, the holiday loses its quiescent restraint and takes on an increasingly American flavor, ie more commercial pizazz.

Michael was relieved Santa spoke English, while Jack learns photo-etiquette, smiling at the camera.The older European Santas also featured a darker companion who gave out lumps of coal for naughty behavior. I was hoping to meet this character, since, I admit, part of me goes Ebenezer as 1/4 of the annual retail earnings - our secular tithe - proves money buys happiness. A few Pepperdine students made the trek, although Santa was taken aback at adult women wanting to sit on his lap! Made his day, I'm sure. Reminded me a bit of Japan, where Christmas is either a child's occasion or a romantic holiday for young couples. ANYWAY, Michael loved sliding around in the snow; he got giddy at the lack of control. His friend, Julian, came along, too.
Jack loved sinking into snow, and the fact that Christmas seems to bring on endless occasions for eating chocolate.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Christmas events, crafts, etc

This is Gingerbread Nativity 2007. All the molds came in a box, so all we needed was very convenient, pre-made dough. Icing made characters out of blobs.
Michael has always loved crafts and cooking; he has landed in the right house. Team sports is another matter.
We are really impressed with the activities of Michael's kindergarten class: Christmas tree painting (the border is all tiny presents), ceramic tile gift, homemade Santa bread, and singing.

Santa breads typically arrive in bakeries Dec 5th, St Nicholas Day Eve. The best ones come with a ceramic pipe in his mouth.Not to be outdone, Jack's preschool featured a Christmas teddy.
We went to a larger mall and put Michael and Jack in a small kids' club, and couldn't believe the rates - 2 hours was 2.50 francs!Went back to the Manora cafeteria and discovered a new station: fresh pasta to order! This lady was making pasta on the spot and you placed all the fixings you wanted in a small bowl, hand it over, and choose one of 4 sauces. Glasses of gorgonzola, chicken and shrimp were kept on ice. REALLY TASTY.
We also went back to the Montreux Christmas market. Best and cheapest pizza around served in a woodfire hut with Christmas beer. Pictured is a castle tower made of logs. These festivals definitely feature Christmas as a rustic event, a lodge atmosphere - no flannel, however.
Skating rinks are in every square and Michael had to try. I admired the way he kept getting up after falling over and over again. He got it down after an hour or so. Not sure why these mini-failures didn't discourage him from trying, whereas in other settings he will quit on a dime in the face of defeat.

Jack an angel, Michael a shepherd, at the All Saint's children's Christmas play.
Profs Weber and Mejina at Pepperdine's final banquet. I enjoyed having coffees and talking shop with Emmanuel (on the right) this term - a University of Lausanne philosophy prof, whose adviser was a close colleague of Heidegger's.
Alex and Michael became fast friends, although he is bound for Thailand next term - a loss for us all!

Strasbourg

Strasbourg has the oldest Christmas market in France, and because of its shared German identity/hostility over the years, the festivities had a German flavor.The markets were extremely packed and, I have to admit, we used Jack's stroller to plow through humanity, gawking at hundreds of vendors selling nativities, ornaments, candy, food - some junk, most not.It was also cold, so Vin Chaud became a staple. Gingerbread spices are sold in combined packets named "Epices," and are used for baking and mulling.
My favorite was this vintage toy stand. Incredible array of tin toys. I broke down and bought a Gigantor, a Japanese TV series robot I loved as a kid.
Gigantor is grey and pointy-nosed to the right.
There were streets with hung chandeliers.
This lady had this old-fashioned music stand.
Warmed up in a nice old restaurant with painted ceilings. The food was good.
I leave you with Michael and Jack's favorite: the amusement ride. Couldn't get over the level of detail on the cars. Enjoy. They did.

Saturday, December 01, 2007

Christmas

Classes over, finals next week, students leave Thursday, and for the first time, the calendars inside and outside the hotel are in sync: It's Christmas.
Chocolate snowmen and reindeer. The big round ones are filled with assorted chocolates, which we bought for Jack and Michael.
Microwaveable chocolate fondue buckets - has Trader Joe's written all over it.
Liqueor-filled, this didn't have Trader Joe's written all over it.Trees are fitted into logbases.
Pepperdine students organized a Christmas party and Michael joined the white elephant gift exchange. Here he is fully absorbed in the ritual: who's gonna pick his gag gift?
Christmas markets are now daily events all over Europe; Montreux having the most impressive one in French-speaking Switzerland (BTW, I now realize how odd it is to have a French-speaking Switzerland - a local Swiss prof called it, "an Indian reservation"). Speaking of which, a fully costumed Native American "band" - complete with a salmon-smoking hut - hit this year's Marche de Noel.
Along with reindeer and

a scary ferris wheel, which featured OPEN "cages" that would rotate and swing - you know this is a land with petty payouts for lawsuits.

Jack and I went to the Vevey outdoor market and eyed the beautiful advent wreaths. Vendors were selling holly, long-needled pine, cedar (silver patterned underneath the green top), miniature fruit, etc for making homemade decor.
Alpine hornplayers were nearby.
Finally, winter brought colder temps, but some spectacular sunsets, too.