Friday, February 29, 2008

Exchange rate

What else needs saying? Ouch. Lowest return ever. We got 1.22 francs several months ago.


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Universal Currency Converter

2008.02.29

1.00 USD

=

1.04 CHF

United States Dollars

Switzerland Francs


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Wednesday, February 27, 2008

OLD NEWS: Valentine's Day, etc.

Before this gets much older, here are some Valentine's Day shots. A party was organized and we contributed chocolate cupcakes with gooey chocolate cream cheese filling with pink peppermint icing crisscrossed with melted chocolate...
Michael applies the chocolate hearts.
Keith, Chris, and Tim in their party clothes.The students were playing charades;
Michael couldn't hold back any longer and jumped in!
We bought Michael a scooter - a very popular item here - and he is learning, with Carolyn's encouragement. Jack coming up the rear! The Olympic Museum sits on a hill reached by a series of escalators: free ride up, then coast back down to the lake.
On the way home from church, we got caught in a train of cars celebrating Kosovo independence; flashing lights, honking horns, and waving flags. We thought the canton of Fribourg had won a sports match! Anyway, we were stuck, so I put on our flashers; Michael grabbed his Greek flag from the back, and began waving it out the window. Sorry, no picture. I was driving!
Warm sunshine came, as well, drawing families to the lake. Our gelato man set up his stand., and we dressed the boys in their Greek sailor shirts for a lakeside photo.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Greece Wrap-up

All you wanted to do was sleep, but we decided to spend our last day in Greece exploring. One night I made a run for souvlaki and gyros at a recommended takeout near our hotel; Carolyn and I looked-up, silently agreeing: It's Greek to Me in Tacoma wins hands down.

Greece has a Hawaii-like status in Europe; most people skip Athens (I'm sympathetic) to head for remote islands which feature more of the striking architecture that we didn't see: white, box-like blocks, rising from deep blue waters, stacking into hillsides.

We did find a great little toystore with handcrafted boats and slingshots.
The owner painted Michael and Jack's names on their little boats.
They're simple; the labor goes into the painted cloth sails.
Here is his son, Alexander.
Greece's ancient legacy divides the national offerings starkly: monuments and rubble versus fun-in-the-sun. This past had a behemoth quality to it, reminding me of China. The wealth of the past didn't inform the present, unlike the way the Italian Renaissance - albeit more recent - seems to flood every nook and cranny of Florentine cuisine, design, fashion, car, gelato, etc with a sense of cultural style. In this way, very much like Hawaii, the tourism seemed locked-in; not generating industries that flow into or benefit the culture at large. Felt poor somehow. Happy, but poor.

The people we talked to - the greatest taxi driver in the world, our toyman - felt eclipsed by the present state of affairs, and were angry over the euro having inflated the cost of living; also contributing to our sense of things being stuck.

We had a yummy lunch at this restaurant overlook of the city, accessible by cogwheel train.
Public behavior seemed really uptight, as though people had been severely shaped by rules-based discipline: guards at museums were unusually strict with slight deviation of movement; one taxi driver was hysterical about stopping to let us out for fear of blocking traffic (it wouldn't have). Forgive my stereotyping, but it seemed more Germanic or Swiss than Mediterranean? What's the story? Legacy of dictatarship? Our bad luck?

I'm more familiar with Greek symbolism in the 20th century, as the competing fountainhead for European civilization, versus the Roman church. Heidegger thought Germany was more authentic than France, because Luther based his translation of the New Testament on the Greek not Latin. The Overcoming Modernity conference participants in 1942 Kyoto thought Japan was a closer embodiment of Greek art than any culture in Europe.

The Hellenistic Cosmos - a virtual reality theater - which we attended on our last day, had intriguing commentary: Athens had invented humanity and the Agora had become the theater of the world.

Besides the metanarrative, I want to report that Jack fell out of his bed and cut his head, only to fall out another night, bruising his chin.

He was fine on the Acropolis. It was the hotel room.

Hydra

Hydra had the most charm of the Greek islands we visited, granted we never got past the tourist traps of the immediate port. We rode donkeys, ate ice cream & baklava, eyed unusual jewelry, bought junk...
but I did find some real markets with remarkable produce for this time of year. Oranges were plentiful, so we had some fresh squeezed juice. The tangerines were sold with leaves, like in Japan, and had a strong flavor. I gave Michael 10 euros to buy anything to bring home; he spent it on a Greek flag and a bag of olives.
BTW, 1/3 of the students got mysteriously ill, eventually hitting Michael, especially, who was miserable until the donkey ride. I have to recommend Greek pharmacies, which sold the cheapest over the counter drugs ever - a small consolation for feeling crummy.
Here are Jack and Robin, with our boat behind.

Friday, February 15, 2008

Greece, Day 3

After two days of museums - the country is essentially one big excavation site - we went on an all-day island-hopping cruise to Poros, Aegina, and Hydra. We were joined by three other groups: Japanese, Chinese, and some middle-aged Greek men.

As we boarded, a man and woman in folk dress flanked us for the souvenir photo, and an electronic keyboardist began churning out syncopated tunes - Bee Gees, dance hits, etc - all at 8:30AM, while this character circled the dance floor.
He later turned up at the final show dressed as a woman, lip-syncing to some hit, then returned as Mick Jagger, Elvis, etc. Interspersed with the commercial lowbrow schtick came Greek dance routines, a la My Big Fat Greek Wedding. One of the Japanese hostesses, whose job it was to get her countrymen far from home to loosen up, challenged opposite sides of the room in a "OOP-PAH" yelling contest, with only moderate success.

It was a weird and surreal floating hell, but loosely informative. It seemed to be a Japanese operation, including the main staff, such as this woman in front of the pricey souvenir shop, who, in her husky voice, crassly motivated her guests to bring back expensive gifts ("400 euros would buy something that won't be put away and forgotten").
I certainly won't be forgetting her anytime soon. Nothing prepared me for what came next though: this couple's rendering of "Sukiyaki," the 1963 hit by Kyu Sakamoto; the only Japanese song to make it to #1 in America.
Back in grad school - another kind of hell - I'd go for a cheap cut at an old-fashioned barbershop in Ithaca (ITHACA, mind you!) NY - a popular business worked by 3 or 4 guys who'd cut jokes all day, talk about the weather, and shave your neck. One Saturday morning, the moment I sat down in the cracked, red leather chair, "Sukiyaki" came on the radio; all conversation in the shop ceased for a full 30 seconds.

Back on the Giorgis, the Greek dancing couple were pulling people out of their seats, marching single file around the room perimeter for the finale, having staged a wedding. A minute later, I saw the female dancer back in her street clothes, wiping down tables, stacking chairs.

Due to arrive in Athens soon.

Greece, Day 2

Michael at the amphitheater of Epidaurus. Amazing acoustics & a lot of steps - why do kids love them?

The clouds lent a dramatic backdrop for the architectural sites...but I was drawn to the landscapes, especially given the gray winter of Switzerland.
Double-petal cherry blossoms at the top of the Mycenae? For one fleeting, bizarre moment, I thought I was in Japan.
Afterwards, we ate another one of those bust-your-gut meals at the Kolizeras tavern, a place with large autographed photos of prominent Americans: Bush Sr, Dukakis, Onassis, etc. Although far outnumbered by those of Italian descent, Greek-Americans seem to hold impressive leverage. My ignorance, but given the recent primaries, maybe Hillary should come sample the moussaka here, too. The pork was to die for!