Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Beaune

Beaune is the heart of Burgundy's wine country -

highly recommended and close (3 hours), so

we hightailed to France after my Thursday class. (The "A" on the map, south of Dijon. As expected, the mustard selection is HUGE).
Beautiful fall scenery - probably last experienced like this in Ithaca days of upstate New York. Similar landscape, but more muted colors.
The town is mostly its medieval center, walled off with many narrow streets leading to squares, and this 15th century hospital:

featuring this lovely tapestry of the risen, sacrificial lamb:
and this incredible painting of the last judgement of Christ, the saved to the left, the condemned off to the right. No fuzzy thinking about hell in those days!

Much of the architecture of France seems rugged, due to the extensive use of stone.
Beaune is a gastronomic paradise, although we dined in more casual restaurants with the boys. I had steak twice, although the regional dish of Burgundy - boeuf bourguignon - was in firm competition. I vowed to try making this after admiring it on others' plates, eager to compare with the Guinness/cocoa-based flavoring I've had success with. Though essentially a stew, these seemed to retain a nice braised finish, always served with fresh noodles. I'll probably keep my mother's Asian style, serving on rice.
OK, this place
had separate chalkboard menus for red and white wines, as well, but note the roasted fig desert. The boys drew during dead times and did really well for the most part.

***
We had a tremendous time at the Saturday market,
featuring seasonal produce and an unusually good selection of clothing, as well.
Check out these mushrooms! Truffles, too.
Fall flora.
Kaki! (although not my favorite variety)
Large array of oysters. The French have a really wide palate and generally you can find great food at the most unlikely places; ie we had a great, cheap meal at a gas station! The attendee rings up your gas, then passes through a wall, emerging on the other side to grill us pork chops, rib steak, with fixings.
Jack and Michael love the candy lady
and the carousel and I was intrigued by these massive macaroons of various fillings:

***
On our way back to CH, we took a 30 min detour to visit the Abbey of Citeaux, where Bernard of Clairvaux first entered monastic life in the 12th c. Admired by Calvin and Luther, I mostly know the man through his poetry, having penned "Jesus, the Very Thought of Thee" & "O Sacred Head Now Wounded":

Be Thou my consolation, my shield when I must die;
Remind me of Thy passion when my last hour draws nigh.
Mine eyes shall then behold Thee, upon Thy cross shall dwell,
My heart by faith enfolds Thee. Who dieth thus dies well.


There wasn't much to see, but full of atmosphere nonetheless.
***
With the grape harvest over, we were free to pick the gleanings,
We brought back dozens of small clusters, along with salami from the vendor above, and served at housechurch; reading "I am the vine..." from John 15, and opting for savory, rather than sweet, for the evening's refreshment.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Wow!!! All of you should have a travel show on TV!!! We are enjoying your blog and learning so much...

Dana says "hi" to Jack!!!

Luma said...

Oh Mike how glorious! I want to live in France. ;-) or at least spend a year going from village to village.